Surfing prototypes (not official models) is part of my job, better than being in the bay.
Surfing what I call a Varmit 6’6 21 2⅝ roundtail 39.24 litres at Bells this Easter.
Quite often the development of prototypes to new models is a long road with many twists and turns.
In the case of the Varmit (tentative name) there has maybe been a few more than others.
The 6’6 Varmit is a variation on the Mollusc model and was inspired by a board I saw in Gary MacNabb’s yard in Encinitas a year or so ago.
I made this 6’6 and surfed it in Sydney a couple of times and it was a pretty good.
A bigger style board for me that features area nose to normal round tail with single to double concave to vee at the tail.
The double concave is to the flat, not double below the rail line like in high performance shortboards. Hard to explain but the double concave high point at the stringer is level with the rail.
Thickness distribution is thinnish at the nose tip, but otherwise normal, and the rails are lowish volume to encourage performance burying the rail.
Rocker is lower nose entry, as you would expect in a board to help you out with moderate tail rocker to help sharp direction changes in the pocket.
While back in Sydney I decided to transform the Varmit into more of a good wave board.
I moved the wide point forward, thus making the outline curve to the tail that touch longer and straighter to give me more hold at speed.
I increased the thickness to 2¾, but kept the rail the same volume as the 2⅝ thick Varmit.
I made 2 boards at 6’6 21 2¾, but one a roundtail and one a rounded-square.
The roundtail has the same outline shape except for wide point forward, and the same bottom single to double level with the rail.
The rounded square has less nose area, and the single to double concave is conventional thru the double being below the rail and deeper.